One of the most popular tourist destinations of Tamil Nadu, Agasthyamalai Hills, is not just sight-seeing place but one that holds special significance in terms of spirituality, mythology and also ecology. Situated at the farthest southern end of Western Ghats and next to the western side of South India, Agasthyamalai Hills is an ecological miracle, because it is home to around 2,000 species of medicinal plants and also as many animal species. Also known as Ashambu Hills, Agasthyamalai Hills are also known for its high peaks. There are 26 peaks in these hills each measuring more than 1,600 metres or 5,200 ft in height. All these features make these hills exceptionally beautiful and the presence of such a huge population of flora and fauna, makes the hills important in terms of ecological balance too.  Another attraction that makes these hills special with regards to environmental conservation is the forests that are home to a wide variety of threatened species.

The hills are known as Agasthyamalai Hills because these hills, legends say, once were the abode of the great Vedic sage and physician Agasthya, who had founded the Siddhar practitioners of Rasayana Herbal medicine. It is the same sage whose picture you see often in Ayurvedic references holding a mortar and pestle.

History

Agasthyamalai Hills has also found reference in mythological contexts. It is believed that all Gods or devas, rishis, all divine beings came to the north side of Mount Kailash to witness the wedding of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. Because of such a huge crowd of celestial beings, the Earth started losing its balance and was in the danger of trembling out of its usual path, which could prove danger to the existence of earth. Lord Shiva, sensing the danger, summoned one of the sapta rishis or seven sages, Sage Agasthya and asked him to go to the southern tip of earth and meditate so that the earth would remain in its position.  The earth was thus saved. It is believed that it was on these hills that sage Agasthya meditated and that later became his abode where he practised medicine. Thus the hills got its names after the great sage.

Geography

As they say, nature doesn’t understand boundaries and what better example than Agasthyamalai Hills. It lies in between two southern states, Tamil Nadu and Kerala and spreads on the both sides of the state borders. While it is Kollam and Thiruvananthapuram districts in Kerala, then it is the Thirunelveli and Kanyakumari districts in Tamil Nadu that these hills traverse by. On the national highway, Agasthyamalai Hills are situated on NH-208 on the north latitude at 9° with Cardamom Hills and Aryankavu Pass on both sides. The Mahendragiri Peak near Kanyakumari is near Agasthyamalai Hills on north latitude at 8° 20'.

Agasthyamalai peak towers among the hills at 1,868 meters or 6,129 ft. The other tall peak on the hills is Ainthuthalai Pothigai at 1,862 metres (6,109 ft). At 8°35′38″N 77°17′10″E, standing at 1,600 metres or at 5,200 ft is Cherumunji Mottai and Naga Pothigai peaks. On these hills alone, there are 23 more peaks which are very tall and stands at a height of more than 1600 metres or 5,200 ft.

It is the good rainfall received by Agasthyamalai Hills that provides flora and fauna a flourishing environment to thrive on. The hills receive rains from the southwest monsoons and also from northeast monsoons, thus receiving around 5,000 millimetres rainfall annually. The months from January to March are usually dry while the remaining months are wet. The tropical forests thriving on the upper slopes also give birth to several perennial streams from the hills. These streams flow down and form important rivers both in Kerala and in Tamil Nadu. The famous rivers of Kerala such as Kallada, Karamana, Vamanapuram and Achankoil and Neyyar are the rivers in Kerala that originate from these hills while the river Thamirabarani along with its tributaries Ramanadhi and Manimuthar originate in the hills and flow through Tamil Nadu.

Environment

Agasthyamalai Hills stand as the perfect embodiment of ecological balance and environment conservation. It is here where different flora and varieties of animals live together in total harmony. The Kanikkaran tribes, one of the oldest living hunter-gatherers, live on these hills.  Those who are nature and animal lovers will find these hills a perfect destination.

One can also find different types of forests on these hills, namely deciduous forests standing tall above 500 metres, on southern side of Western Ghats, the Montane rain forests at a height of more than 1,000 metres, the shola-grasslands which also are at a height of more than 1,600 metres.

Agasthyamalai Hills are also home to precious plants and endangered species of animals. While you can find unique wild varieties of mango, banana, cardamom, turmeric and jackfruit, the hills are most noted for the presence of around 2,000 species of rare and very valuable medicinal plants. Of these, around 50 species are endangered ones. Endangered animals such as vulnerable Gaur, Indian Elephant, Sloth Bear, Nilgiri Marten, lion-tailed macaques, Malabar Spiny Dormouse, Nilgiri Tahr and even Bengal Tiger can be spotted here. Other rare species include king cobras, great pied hornbills, Jerdon’s Palm Civet and Gray Slender Loris.

Protected Areas

Since Agasthyamalai Hills is such a precious habitat to endangered species of plants and animals, there are protected areas in the hills, both on Tamil Nadu side and Kerala side to ensure that the species are well taken care of. It is the Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve or KMTR spread across 895 square kilometres or around 346 sq mi in Tamil Nadu while in Kerala it is Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary in area of around 128 square kilometres or 49 sq mi, the 53 square kilometres or 20 sq mi Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary, 171 square kilometres Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary, Shenduruny Wildlife Sanctuary and the Kulathupuzha and Palode Reserve forests. 
A small forest adjoining KMTR is privately owned by Dhonavur Fellowship who had major role in not only restoring and protecting the forest but it has also been maintained and preserved well. This forest is called as the Naraikadu forest which means “grey jungle”.

The protected areas, including Agasthyamalai Biosphere Reserve, are spread across 3,500.36 km2 or 1,351.50 sq mi. Around 1,828 square kilometres or 706 sq mi belongs lie in Kerala while in Tamil Nadu, the area is around 1,672.36 square kilometres or 645.70 sq mi.

Exciting news about Agasthyamalai Hills is that UNESCO World Heritage Committee has accepted the nomination of Western Ghats, Agasthyamalai Biosphere Reserve and Agasthyamalai Sub-Cluster to be declared as a world heritage site. Once it is finally accepted, Agasthyamalai Hills will become more famous and known all over the world.

Tourism

Agasthyamalai Hills are not only renowned as an ecotourism site but it is also a pilgrim’s paradise with the presence of so many temples and a preferred destination for trekkers and nature enthusiasts. One of the major attractions on these hills is the seasonal waterfalls. The Suruli Falls originate in the Meghamalai Hills and the interesting aspect of these falls is that first it falls from a height of 150 feet, forms a pool, then flows a short distance and again jumps down from 40 feet.

There are also quite a number of cave temples on the hills, which are visited by many pilgrims.  There are around 18 caves near the falls with astounding rock-cut architecture, that is said to have been built around 18th century. Visitors can get to these ancient temples both from Theni district and Cumbum by road. Theni is 56 km away while Cumbum is situated just 10 kms away.

The Agastya Murti temple on the peak is visited by pilgrims often to perform puja for the sage. There is a well developed pathway that passes through Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary to the peak. Trekkers too can take this path which actually starts from the Bonaccord Estate situated in the Kerala but they need to take a guide from the Department of Forests along.  There is also an overnight camp facility for trekkers organised by the Forest Department in the forest.  The peak can be reached next day and the same day they can even return to the camp. The pilgrims visit the temple in the January and February months but since the region is a protected area, only 100 pilgrims are allowed.

Those who wish to be a part of this pilgrimage will have to get an entry pass for Rs. 50 from the Forest Headquarters office in Trivandrum.

Places to See

Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary is a nature lover’s dream with such scenic surroundings and a huge population of species. Along with lush natural vegetation, the sanctuary is home to around 30 varieties of reptiles, many species of amphibians, fishes and almost 176 bird species. The animals spotted here are elephants, sambar, barking deer, sloth bears and tigers. There is also the picturesque Neyyar basin which is formed of the water flown from the hills. Boating facility is available in the basin for tourists.

Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary

Ornithologists’ haven, the Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary is located around 50 kms on the Ponmudi route and is home to tigers, barking deer and sloth bears in addition to several other animal species. There are also around 233 bird species and 27 fish species, along with a variety of amphibians and reptiles, present in the sanctuary. In fact, the water resources in the sanctuary also provide drinking water to the Trivandrum city, Kerala’s capital.

Shenduruny Wildlife Sanctuary

Shenduruny Wildlife Sanctuary is a haven for animals like elephants, spotted deer, leopard, barking deer and Nilgiri Langur, who like to move about in lush green environment. The Shenduruny Sanctuary with its lush greenery offers the perfect environment to these animals. There is also a lake in the sanctuary which is frequented by these animals.  The name of the sanctuary is derived from a tree species, named Chenkurunny or Shenkurunny. Shenduruny Wildlife Sanctuary lies at a distance of 60 km from the Kollam city.

Palode Reserve Forest

Palode Reserve Forest, located 55 kms from Trivandrum, Kerala, is home to 13 tribes along with a wide variety of animal, bird and plant species. The capital city is also the nearest airport and the railway station too.

Kalakkad Mudanthurai Tiger Reserve

Kalakkad Mudanthurai Tiger Reserve is surrounded by the Naraikadu forest or the Grey Jungles, which is the best preserved area in the whole of Agasthyamalai Hills, thanks to the perseverance and dedication of the Dhonavur Fellowship, the private owners of the area. The Banertherthum Waterfall situated right in the middle of the reserve adds to the beauty and is a boon to the animals.